When my mum passed away 10 years ago, I was given her illusion set diamond ring as a keepsake. I had always loved it and wore it regularly as a reminder of my dear mum. Some years later, I also inherited my grandmother’s engagement ring – a very simple design but featuring a really beautiful (and sparkly!) old cut diamond. I had for some time been considering getting my grandmother’s diamond set in to my mum’s ring to combine the two very special women in my life. I made several approaches to jewellers to get quotes as I had not really worked in gold before and was anxious to tackle such an important remodel on my own. Eventually I was encouraged and persuaded by another local jeweller – Melanie Bowler to do it with her and use it as a learning experience and confidence boost. Having seen my other silver work, she assured me that I was quite capable of doing it, that working in gold is hardly any different to silver and that it is always good to develop new skills.
The remodel involved cutting out the old claw setting and making a new bezel collet. This is basically a small tube into which the diamond will be housed sitting on a smaller, lower tube which holds it level and in place. The collet was made up using 18carat gold (from a ring belonging to my great grandmother), soldered to the shank of my mum’s ring. The very top edge was then filed down so that just a small amount showed over the girdle which is the widest part of the cut stone. The edge was then bevelled, the stone set in to the collet and the top edge of the setting was pushed over to hold it in place.
I won’t deny, it was scary working on something with such sentimental value to me but resetting my Grandma’s diamond into a new setting (made using my great grandmother’s gold) in my mum’s ring has brought not three generations together but four. How about that for an heirloom piece!
Working alongside another jeweller was a real joy. Mel gave me enough support to allow me to carry out the job but didn’t do it for me. Her patience and tutoring were pitched perfectly to encourage me to be brave, bold and to ‘go for it’ whilst still leaving me feeling supported and safe. I gained valuable experience and knowledge which I have since used in other work and I am now planning to use gold more regularly in my designs.
I am now able to wear the ring all the time which I know my mum, grandma and great grandma would all be delighted about and I absolutely love wearing it knowing that in doing so, I keep them and my memories of them closely connected to me.
A soft matt finish and bezel setting for the diamond give the ring a more contemporary look
